Today we have the honor of featuring the work of Flaminia Saccucci, an Italian fashion and textile designer based in Rome, Italy. Flaminia graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, with an emphasis on fashion design with print. She won the prestigious L’Oréal award for best collection of the year in 2011 and went on to work as a print and textile design consultant for brands including Givenchy, Dior, Versace, Mugler and Isetan-Mitsukoshi
I was immediately struck by the depth, dimension, and emotion that comes through in Flaminia’s work. Her patterns are striking, layered, and draw me in. I cannot help but explore the motifs, layers, and colors. This was one of the many reasons I was excited to hear more about Flaminia’s consultancy business and how she got her start in this very competitive part of the textile design industry.
What does your work as a consultant entail?
Working as a consultant I have the freedom to work for different brands and more importantly, to manage the creative development of my projects. This allows me to do approach work the best way for each client.
I do both the creative work (research, drawing and painting, experiment on fabrics) as well as the technical work (print placements, repeats, choosing fabric bases, textile development). I play the role of intermediary by interacting with both my clients and their print factory. This has proven to be valuable, although what I do mostly is the creative part. Most often during the creative process I will develop the print design together with my clients. This is exciting because I can see a collection developing from their first mood board.
Through all of this it is important to remember that each fashion house has its own story and heritage. This means that every time I begin on a new project it is important to remember this and be respectful of it. It’s important to always be alert to creative ways and out-of-the-box thinking, while not forgetting the handwriting of the brands you are working for—their signature features.
Can you tell us how you landed your first job?
My first full time job was at Givenchy in Paris. I had been contacted directly from the Givenchy CEO at the time after they saw my degree collection from Central Saint Martins, for which I won the L’Oréal Award as best collection of the year. It was a wonderful reminder of why your portfolio is so important, as it can speak to your skills through someone else’s simple observation.
You have the privilege of working with some of the top brands in the fashion industry. Do you see any trends emerging within the high-end apparel industry with regards to print and pattern? What trends are you following for Fall 2018 or Spring Season 2019?
In textile there will be increasingly more concern over sustainability, taking greater care to show eco-friendly products and finishes, as well as eliminating waste. Regarding the design aspect, the thread is vitality and vibrancy. Floral will still be strong; also nature’s organic shapes will become soft geometrical prints. The shapes are bold and get abstract. There will be a lot of layering of colors, texture. and shades. The colors are vivacious and sometimes sparkling. The trends that I would look for will be an inspiration for many collections are the interpretations of different traditions, ancient tribes, and ethnic symbolism .
You can see more of Flaminia’s work on her Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/flaminiasaccucci/
Rainy days might seem dreary, but to look at them through the lense of pattern design is one way I’ve come to appreciate less than ideal weather. From droplets on a car window to the tiny ripples in a puddle, rain creates an abundance of natural textures that can serve as inspiration for a pattern. The next time it rains, grab your camera or your sketchbook and see what interesting shapes and patterns can be found in the drizzle!
Images via: (clockwise from top left) “Raindrops, Mammoth Hot Springs” by Yellowstone National Park, “Rain” by Jim Champion (cropped from original), “Rain makes circles” by tanakawho, “rain” by Vikramdeep Sidhu (cropped from original), “rain on doorstep” by andres musta, “Rain” by Matthias Ripp, “raining” by nathan esguerra, “Eső előtt, eső után” by Roland Molnár
We are thrilled to announce that designers Lise Gulassa and MaryJane Mitchell have joined our Textile Design Lab team of industry experts! Each of these remarkable ladies checks our private TDL forum twice a week and responds to industry questions, giving feedback on artwork and supporting our members as they continue to grow and master the textile design industry.
Lise Gulassa is one half of the creative duo behind Sisters Gulassa
, an international design house that produces art, patterns, products, and trend forecasting. Throughout her career she has been head designer for a number of clothing designers, including Levi Strauss & Co., and instructor for the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in San Francisco.
MaryJane Mitchell has been designing textiles for the babies and children’s markets for over 25 years. She has a wealth of experience designing for home decor products for kids, apparel, the quilt market and sleepwear.
MaryJane was the guest expert in June 2016 in the Textile Design Lab, where she provided an in-depth training on designing nursery and children’s textile collections for the quilting industry. This training is available exclusively to Lab members and can be accessed by joining the Lab here.
You can learn more about MaryJane in this informative Pattern Observer interview.
We are so honored to have Lise and MaryJane on our team and hope you will join us in giving them a warm welcome into our Pattern Observer community!
Isabel Serna for Black Lamb Studio
Today it is our honor to feature the work of Isabel Serna of Black Lamb Studio. Isabel has lived an exciting life, filled with travel and new experiences. I believe these adventures are reflected in her stunning and energetic print and pattern designs.
Isabel is originally from Colombia, although she moved to Orlando, FL when she was 15 years old. She later studied industrial design at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale and also studied French Literature and Art in La Sorbonne in Paris.
Isabel started her professional career as a luggage/travel accessory designer, where her favorite thing to do was design the patterns for the interior linings of products. Isabel shared: “I needed to feed my creativity more so I created my company ‘Black Lamb Studio’ and started working as a freelancer in graphic/industrial design until I left that career and decided to dedicate my time 100% to pattern design and illustration.”
“Everything I design starts with pen/pencil/ink/paint and paper. I usually have a color palette in mind that I want to use and that is inspiring me at the moment. The way I work, my scanner is my best friend! Most of my designs are inspired by my travels or something I see on my daily life. The ‘vintage tile’ design I created for Greetabl was inspired by a trip to Peru and the beautiful tile work I saw there. Some of the other designs were inspired by a recent trip to Stockholm.”
Isabel Serna for Black Lamb Studio
Isabel was kind enough to answer a few questions about the launch of her studio and how she is currently marketing her work and finding new clients.
Can you please tell us more about your decision to leave your full time job? How did you prepare for that transition?
My decision for leaving my full time job was difficult. Obviously finances were important to consider but I thankfully had my husband’s full support. Upon graduation from college I had started full-time employment within 2 weeks and it was not an easy transition for me. The truth is I was really unhappy. Even though the job itself was great, I felt very frustrated creatively. Even in a design position, working for a big company has LOTS of limitations, budgets, opinions, etc, and after 3 1/2 years I was bored and creatively dry.
During this time I had created my company so I could do freelance projects on the side. The problem was that as days and months passed by – and after sitting in front of a computer for 9 hours a day – it was unrealistic to go home and freelance. So I talked to my husband and a week later I was putting in my resignation letter.
I honestly wish I had more of a plan, but I didn’t. I just knew that I wanted to do something else and carve my own way with a little more creative freedom. I started doing branding for local businesses—logos, business cards, product consulting, etc. It was a bit better, but I was still not 100% inspired by what I was doing either. One day I just grabbed a brush and ink and started doodling, just to be free and creative and started making patterns. I could not stop and in that moment I knew…I felt it. I had finally found something that I could stick to, that I loved, and which was very fulfilling creatively.
Isabel Serna for Black Lamb Studio
Is there anything that you would have done differently? Do you have any recommendations for other designers who are considering leaving their full time jobs?
I would highly recommend someone considering doing this to start their Instagram page and get something rolling BEFORE you leave your full time job. I didn’t even have an Instagram account until 2 years later, because I didn’t realize how important one would be for the business. There is no way to determine the high value you have from sharing and creating a community of people interested in what you do.
My advice is to start posting your work, even if it’s not great and even if you don’t have amazing pictures. Post often and re-post the people who inspire you. Build a little network on Instagram—it’s a good strategy. I have to say that I’ve never found a more amazing, supporting, friendly, and inspiring community than the one on Instagram.
Black Lamb Studio
Are there particular markets or products that you have in mind when you create your patterns?
When I create my patterns, I feel like I’m always thinking about how the pattern would translate to stationery/paper goods and fabric.
How are you currently marketing your work and finding new clients?
As soon as you build a bit of a portfolio, do not hesitate to write emails and reach out to companies that you think would be interested in your patterns. Some companies never reply, others say that they are not interested at the moment, but every so often, a company will look at your work and like it! Actually, 100% of my clients have come from Instagram and me sending emails like this in the dark. After doing this exclusively some time (and I still do it), I also recently reached out to an art agent to help me find more clients and market my work.
You can see more of Isabel’s beautiful work at her website: www.blacklambstudio.com.
Each month in the Textile Design Lab we post a Chelsea’s Challenge with the goal of helping our members build their pattern portfolios. We provide a trend to focus on and throughout the month the Textile Design Lab team provides feedback on our private forum as designers work through the process of developing a main print and 2-4 coordinates. From work created in these challenges our members have gone on to land agents, freelance clients, and licensing deals, but what’s more is the feeling of community and camaraderie created as students work through the challenges together, providing feedback on each others’ work, bouncing ideas off one another, and cheering each other along through the process. Call me biased, but it really is a sight to see!
Most often with this design challenge we invite participants to develop a pattern collection geared toward any market of their choosing, but every so often we like to switch things up and focus on a particular market. This month we are so excited to delve into the activewear market for the Spring/Summer ’19 season with our new “Activate” challenge! In the Lab we offer three trend boards which include recommended Pantone colors and inspiring imagery to help get the creative juices flowing. This month’s boards explore
- the juxtaposition between natural and urban environments
- a twist on classic “sporty” patterns
- and a soft nature-inspired theme that is well suited to yoga wear and athleisure brands
Sound interesting? Head over to the Textile Design Lab and join us to participate and build your portfolio…the deadline to complete the Activate challenge is Monday, August 7th!