We asked ten designers to share what the first moment of the design process looks like for them: the rituals, the tools, the mental state, and that first gesture. This post is a quieter, more intimate kind of feature, less about the finished work and more about the process that rarely gets seen. The start of the creative process, before a pattern exists, when it’s still just an impulse or a mark on paper.
First, let’s introduce these designers: we have interiors expert Jenny Bova, apparel print designer Tiana Denine of DigitalKENTE, color and print design extraordinaire Lise Gulassa of Sisters Gulassa, creative director and surface designer Carol Layton, collage and knitwear designer Amanda Letscher of Blythly, watercolor expert and apparel print designer Fizah Malik, illustrator and fabric designer Holly McBride, home decor designer Iris Plaitakis of Lotus & Palmette, free crochet designer Teresa Reynolds, and surface designer Batoul Yazdanian of ByheartDesign.
Jenny Bova
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
Since I license my work, I work in collections. My initial marks consist of a series of thumbnails that I use to roughly map out the ideas for each pattern. Here I’m thinking about scale, motifs, mark-making style, and sometimes color. These happen in a sketchbook or sometimes on the iPad in Fresco. They are never polished and are simply me thinking on paper. By doing this, I begin to see what will make a collection cohesive and ensure that I have enough variety for the prints to work well together. From here, I start painting motifs and exploring ideas.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?)
A new design or collection always begins with a feeling or a vibe I want to convey. I will create a tone-of-voice (mood board) for the collection, using inspirational prints, artwork, color palettes, and objects to help me stay attuned to the look as I create. I write the top companies I’m targeting, a few keywords, and some style notes about how I want to create my designs. The style notes can be mediums, linework details, and motif ideas. Most of my collections are geared to home, tabletop, or paper products, so the market is already established.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?)
Music, unlimited time (no appointments), and freedom to paint and explore the ideas in my thumbnails without pressure to make them work. In general, I don’t book anything on Fridays, so I have this dedicated time to start my collections and create without interruption.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?)
Excitement! I have ideas about what I want to create, but the end result is always different from what I anticipate, so it’s fun to see where the process takes me. I enjoy reacting to impromptu marks and building on them. I always go back to my tone-of-voice board eventually to make sure I’m keeping the collection in line with the overall intent, but reacting creatively in the moment is always exciting for me.
Tiana Denine
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
The first mark depends on what the idea is and the style I want to create. If the print will be digital only, I may start with color palette inspiration. If I am working on a style that should look more hand-done, then I will sketch out the idea of the mark first in a sketchbook or on blank paper.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?)
A new design begins from an idea in my head, and then from trend research. Since I am creating prints for commercial use, I need to know what is trending, what is selling, and what is in high demand, and then I can diverge into my interpretation. If I am creating a logo, then I always research what logomarks or icons are already out in the world.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?)
I usually start each day with a hot shower and then mindful stretching and physical therapy. I usually wake up stiff from joint inflammation. Warming up my body is necessary if I know I will be sitting and drawing on the computer for long hours. Morning work is best, and if I am creating something from scratch, then silence is preferred. Breaks are necessary, so working on something for a few hours, taking a break, then looking at it again in the evening, is a good practice.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?)
The feeling depends on the type of project I am working on. If this is client work, with several meetings and the creative direction is clear, it should be fun and exciting to begin a new creative adventure. If I am working on surface designs for the new season, relying only on trends or data about what sold well last year, then it could be a daunting task.
Lise Gulassa
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
A first mark for me is often ink on paper, to warm up, loosen up, to try to get into a flow. Ink moves very beautifully, so it is a great way to start. I like using cheap paper because it isn’t precious, and can be very freeing. I will often give myself little challenges or parameters to begin, just to start moving quickly without overthinking anything. Like, draw this bouquet or these flowers quickly, with this funky brush, etc., without being too hung up on the outcome. Or, use only these 3 colors for this sketch/ painting, etc.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?)
A new design comes from “D”, all of the above! I find inspiration in many different ways, and places, such as certain colors, or combinations of colors that are inspiring me, flowers from the garden, or a bouquet, magazine images, traveling, etc. I will also put together inspirational images that might capture the spirit of what I am after, things and ideas I am very excited about. It could also be folk art or historical references, too. Being outdoors is tremendously inspiring and important as well!
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?)
Yes, lately I make a cup of tea before I begin, often I will put on my painting dress/ smock, (an old housekeeper type dress with deep pockets that buttons up the front) to signal I have begun. I usually have a radio playing music in the background quietly. I do all of this when I come into the studio to create a ritual and flow. Then I start with an exercise, a concept or idea to practice or to experiment, later I might move on to more specific projects I am working on, or get caught up in what I am doing!
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?)
I can get intimidated by a blank page/ canvas, or wanting a certain outcome, so I find it is best if I have inspiration, or an idea or concept that I am excited about trying or working on, which could also be experimenting with materials, and processes. The idea is to start quickly without thinking too much, so that the spontaneity is what is driving me, it is so fun to get caught up in the process and in the excitement of discovery. I prefer working with raw materials, paints, inks and paper, and then taking what I have worked on into Photoshop and/ or Illustrator to create the final repeats. I love it when I capture the gestures of the flowers, or whatever I am painting or drawing, without belaboring the outcome. I find my best work is often when I move quickly or freely.
Carol Layton
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
I sketch in pencil on tracing paper. I had a teacher at FIT who said that it is a simple way to start, which is less formal and allows for more creativity. I sometimes redraw over a sketch on another sheet to refine it.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) A new design usually starts with going somewhere nearby (usually on a run) or in my travels. I take photos with my phone and look at things through the lens of a designer.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?) I don’t have any rituals other than planning my steps to get ready to paint motifs. I try to paint and sketch in the morning. The available light in my space is better in the morning. I prefer quiet for concentration. I leave afternoons and evenings for computer work.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) I have an idea in my head for a design. I suppose that is anticipation. I usually find some surprises or make adjustments as I go and things unfold. I love starting to assemble designs and watching things come together — planned and unexpected.
Amanda Letscher
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
My first gesture usually begins with a line. I have always loved intuitive drawing, where I have nothing in mind I want to render, I let the lines inspire a direction. My favorite tool, other than a marker, is using scissors or a knife to cut paper intuitively. I have recently been experimenting with a 360-degree cutting knife, which has made curvy lines easier to achieve with cutting.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?)
A new design begins with playing with leftover shapes and paper scraps. I like to arrange the shapes and rotate them to look for a story. I usually have a color palette in mind and try to limit my color choices to five or fewer. Sometimes I create entirely new motifs from fresh paper to start a design, but I try to save every scrap and use up my smaller pieces first. I enjoy using plexiglass and shelves to organize my paper scraps by color.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?)
I have little kids, so my time to create can be very limited. My studio is right next to my kids’ bathroom and in between their rooms, so I usually try to squeeze in some creating when they are in the bath and then right after putting them to bed when the house is calm and the day is almost done. My creative goal is to have 10-15 minutes of making every day rather than long stretches of time more infrequently.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) My emotions with creating oscillate a lot between joy and frustration. Once I make something, I like to hang it up and look at it many times throughout the week, analyzing how I feel about it from different times of the day and perspectives. I find that editing is the most important part of my process; choosing what to include and what to leave out is everything!
Fizah Malik
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
The first mark I make comes from a visual spark. Most often it starts with a floral form or a colour combination that catches my attention and stays with me. Drawing manually comes naturally to me, so the moment inspiration strikes, my instinct is to put pencil to paper and bring it to life.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) Whether the idea comes from observing nature, a reference image, or a moment of curiosity, the process always begins with sketching and letting the idea take shape organically.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?) Choosing the color palette after I finish sketching really helps bring the design together. I do my best work early in the morning, once the kids are off to school. Sitting with a hot cup of tea, my favourite music playing, and my curious cats roaming nearby has become my daily creative ritual. I’m blessed to have a beautiful studio custom-built in my home, a space that took over two years to complete. Every corner reflects my aesthetic sensibility and my love for design.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) The moment I begin a design is usually filled with a creative burst and the excitement of turning the ideas in my mind into something physical.
Holly McBride
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like?
While the first mark I make may be felt-tip pen or colored pencil, most typically it is simply a pencil on paper. I prefer Blackwing pencils!
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) I am deeply inspired by where I live, a few miles in from the coast of Maine. I have access to woods, farms, and the sea. My camera roll is filled with images of flowers, grasses, shells, and vistas. I always start in my sketchbook (or in a small book I make myself – like a one-page zine), either sketching outside, in a local coffee shop, or in my home studio.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?) I most often sketch spontaneously; I take my sketchbook, pencils and a few black pens with me almost everywhere. When I do sit down to draw with intention, I like to gather all my supplies and get cozy. However, I find that when I add importance to the moment of drawing or sketching, I tend to overthink and second-guess myself a lot more, so I try to be mindful of that!
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?)
I get pretty excited to get my idea on paper when inspiration strikes!
Iris Plaitakis
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like? There is no one way in which I begin. I cherish a varied and experimental approach to designing, so all of the above could apply. Sometimes I sketch my hallmark motifs (called ‘orgs’) on paper, drafting repeats with post-it notes. I love playing with geometric shapes in Illustrator and the endless possibilities. Other times, I have been inspired to manipulate a snapshot on my phone in Photoshop. These are just a few examples of how I begin. Having been an exhibiting fine artist for well over 20 years, I have a strong visual language and know that whatever I create will inevitably reflect my signature style.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) Again, so many different ways. I have always drawn automatically on paper. Procreate is a new favourite go-to for evening sketching on the couch. I collect textiles and simply handling these in my studio inspires me. Also, I make time to wander the city. And being in nature, without fail, makes me want to make art.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?) I suppose it depends on how you define beginning. I certainly prefer daylight for making work, and I have a bizarre ritual of clearing and meticulously cleaning my desk before working on my computer in earnest. That is of course now inevitable since a repeat pattern in its finished form will be digital.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) Excitement always, and sometimes anticipation if I have already seen something in my mind’s eye.
Teresa Reynolds
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like? My first marks are vetted with unadulterated joy and can emerge in any of the fiber-art or digital formats I employ. Whether physical or virtual, that first gesture is intuitive—an opening rather than a plan—allowing joy and guidance to lead the way.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) Color is always the starting point. Each morning I drink in the beauty of color relationships, often with a cup of coffee, and contemplate how form and fashion might unfold. My practice spans modern art quilting, dyeing, freeform Irish crochet, freeform embroidery, and digital surface-pattern design, which I am currently hybridizing into wearable art, wildlife fiber sculptures, and an ongoing narrative project titled Mysteries of MER.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?)
Flow is effortlessly available across all my craft choices, supported by deep research and extensive reading. I am intentional about what I watch and listen to, as outside influences can manifest directly onto fiber, cloth, or pixels. I follow the sun throughout the day in my studio loft, using natural light intentionally for specific tasks. I also work in close relationship with my guides—teachers, mentors, and spiritual influences—who help orient my creative decisions. Most notably, Jane Dunnewold’s Creative Strength Training has given me profound fiber-related confidence and a deep trust in process. My crochet practice, in particular, has been deeply shaped by Sue Merton, The Mercerie, and Maire Treanor’s Irish crochet workshops, which continue to inform my relationship with structure, freedom, and hand-built form.
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) Because of unexpected physical life changes, I proceed slowly, yet with deep security—anchored by a strong connection to my guides, both lived and spiritual, who shape my thoughts and keep me aligned. There is a quiet readiness before beginning, a sense of listening rather than urgency.
Batoul Yazdanian
Describe the literal first mark you make when starting a new design. Is it a pencil line? A shape in Illustrator? A photograph? A color swatch? What does that first gesture look like? The first emotional feeling I capture through photography comes from reacting to colorways and the combinations of forms and colors that surround me. Instinctively, I photograph the scene. Immediately, I begin to imagine how it could be transformed into a print—whether the moment appears in a shopping center, a park, or in nature.
Where does a new design usually begin for you? (A sketchbook? Procreate? A walk outside? A reference image? A feeling?) It always starts with a feeling. When that special feeling arises, I begin to work with various sketches and illustrations from my archive of paintings, allowing them to guide the design.
Do you have any rituals or conditions that help you begin? (A certain time of day, music, silence, a specific tool, a cup of something?) I need to awaken my romantic, quiet, and sensitive inner voice. The challenge is sustaining that state in a world filled with noise, constant activity, and a lack of sensitivity and kindness. To reconnect with it, I listen to music— especially Persian romantic songs with poems about flowers and birds, and to artists like Julio Iglesias, Sting, and Melody Gardot. Their music awakens poetic voices within me and helps me rediscover beauty and hope
What does the moment before you start feel like? (Excitement? Resistance? Blankness? Anticipation?) I work best at night when combining my illustrations in Photoshop. However, I consciously choose to wake up in the morning and carry that feeling with me throughout the day. When I prepare myself—wearing red lipstick, choosing beautiful clothes, sitting before my sketch paper, and painting—I fully enter that creative state.
